W.I.P. Nisseringen Denmark LIDAR landscape

Discussion in 'Tracks' started by DanTDBV, Jan 2, 2016.

  1. Pixelchaser

    Pixelchaser Well-Known Member

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    full Bezier, not Bezier smooth or corner. unless you want a corner of course. a full Bezier will allow you to achieve transition to straight sections more efficiently whilst a smooth Bezier turn your hair grey and reduce your life expectancy considerably.
     
  2. LilSKi

    LilSKi Well-Known Member

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    In blender these are the options.
    upload_2017-2-7_17-23-32.png

    As I said over on RD forum. Bezier is my drug of choice. Also make sure you set the resolution to 64 and twisting to Z-up
    upload_2017-2-7_17-25-49.png
     
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  3. DanTDBV

    DanTDBV Member

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    Thank you LilSki and Pixelchaser.

    Now I know where to start. Splines watch out, I am on my way.:ninja:

    Ohh, well I have some issues I need to work out first. That willl be in another post.

    Turns out I was doing the point intensity correctly, there is just no differense in the intensity in my cloud.:oops:

    capture.png
     
  4. LilSKi

    LilSKi Well-Known Member

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    Huh... I'm no lidar expert but I find that odd. I've looked at a few different data sets and they all had intensity data.
     
  5. DanTDBV

    DanTDBV Member

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    I have checked and with the used set, the color is a uniform black. I think that it may be the choice of those who have prepared the files.
     
  6. DanTDBV

    DanTDBV Member

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    The brickwall..... Yes.


    I think that my Blender is not set up correctly, to creating for Asetto Corsa.

    It looks to me like things like lightning, basic worldsettings, rendersettings and who knows what else is off the mark.

    A while ago I was fighting for 1½ week with Texture baking and it was not working as expected.

    I was trying to bake a diffuse tex of my guardrail, with the mounting hardware and the corrosponding normal map to a clean rail.

    000382.png

    I also wanted to try to bake the rail, to a flat plane together with a normal map, to see how that works.

    I followed 5 tutorials to the letter, all in Blender render.

    I didn't get any usefull results, no matter what and how many times I tried.
    I had one where the bake repeatedly only would go to 13% and then stop.

    Something was wrong, but what?

    Somewhere it was mentioned, that the baker's are using the rendersettings. Can't remember where.

    I tried to set up the camera and hit the renderbutton. Blarrrhhh. The result looked even worse than this render.

    000383.png

    It is not only renders that does not look good. When I have objects close to each other I also get issues in the viewport.

    000392.png

    So I need to set up the correct foundation in Blender.

    This have made me thinking about, how any help could benefit the most people.

    How would you guys that are repeatedly praised, for your outstanding work feel about it, if I where to create a thread, with an invitation for you, to post the basic settings, for the software that you are using?



    Happy modding
     
  7. luchian

    luchian Administrator Staff Member

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    I don't customize very many settings starting from default in Blender, but the few I do, I'll be happy to share, sure :)

    ..sent from my phone.

    PS: of course I know you were not specifically addressing to me with such big words
     
  8. DanTDBV

    DanTDBV Member

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    Thank you luchian.

    You are spending a lot of time helping the rest of us, on the way to getting good results. That is definitely worthy of praise. It is very much appreciated.

    I had a little scare yesterday. Was adding my ortho photo as a texture to distant parts of the landscape mesh.

    Suddenly all objects where black in texture mode.

    000393.jpg

    It looked okay in rendered mode, but What the heck!

    Turns out that I had hit w in object mode and turned on Restrict Render Unselected. When I turned it of I was back to normal again.

    Phew!

    Happy modding
     
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  9. DanTDBV

    DanTDBV Member

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    I have hit a snag that is blocking my landscape work

    My 3D Cursor is no longer moving to the clicked point in User Perspective.

    It seems to have a mind of its own when I click to place it.

    The distance from where I click, to where it appears varries. The pictures show the most extreme case, where it seems to appear behind me.

    000406.png
    000407.png

    It makes the work somewhat difficult.

    It is working correctly in Ortho.
    000408.png 000409.png

    I think that I may have activated something by accident, but I have no idea what.

    I have been doing a lot of Lasso Select and Shift Select lately, while doing retopology on this mesh.

    It used to work as it should, but suddenly while working, this od behavior started.

    It has happened once before with another file where I saved it, thinking that it was a Blender snag that would go away by restarting Blender. It didn't.

    I opened an older file and redid the work, until it happened again.
    This time I exited Blender without saving the file. Didn't matter, the behavior is somehow embedded in the file.
    It is only in these 2 files, that this is happening. All others are working as they should.

    Using Ortho could be a workaround, but I prefer to work in User Perspective. Also if I hit the same mouse/key combo and it happens again, I am sunk.

    I have tried:
    • Factory reset
    • Dissabling and activating all addons
    • Upgraded to 2.78c
    • Changing mouseclick to right and back to left.
    • Dissabling and activating:
      Cursor Depth, Auto Depth
      Zoom to Mouse Position
      Rotate Around Selection
    If anyone want to look, I have uploaded the file here:
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/zggo71eifnvv98j/Nis 2302 2017.blend?dl=0

    Happy modding.
     
  10. DanTDBV

    DanTDBV Member

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    Turns out that my view start clipping was set to small. By changing it to 1mm it works again.

    Phew!.

    Happy modding
     
    luchian likes this.
  11. Pixelchaser

    Pixelchaser Well-Known Member

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    cool. noticed someone else with that same problem recently. maybe it was you on the Kunos forums ?
     
    Last edited: Mar 1, 2017
  12. DanTDBV

    DanTDBV Member

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    I am back on track again! Pun intended!:)

    Car is Lada 2101 from RD.

    A very rubbish version, but the major point now, is to get feel, flow and dimensions right.

    I have currently only uploaded it for members of the track club, so they can test it.

    Don't worry, you will get your chance later.

    000411.jpg 000414.jpg 000415.jpg 000417.jpg 000421.jpg 000423.jpg 000427.jpg 000431.jpg 000432.jpg 000438.jpg

    Happy modding
     
    Last edited: Mar 2, 2017
  13. DanTDBV

    DanTDBV Member

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    Nisseringen is not abbondonned, it is just on hold, while I do some Pointcloud research.

    Meanwhile I have finished the first guidemesh for my Fierce Volvo.

    000439.jpg

    In my opinion the most iconic Danish movie or TV car.

    If I say:
    ”Så er der Kronhjort”
    ”Kaffe og kage og frem og tilbage.”
    ”Ska du ha soya i rullen?......FUK!”

    Then there are a couple of generations on each side of my age, that knows exactly what I am talking about.

    000124.jpg

    Then we add the song.



    And I have permission from the creators of the show, where it is from to do this.


    It's a customized 1967 Volvo 121 Amazon.

    000185.jpg

    The guidemesh is for the rims. In Denmark they are known as Brazil rims, but it is Mangels 8 spoke steel rims.

    s-l1600 (42).jpg

    ESM08X15-2.jpg


    I am following CGMasters ”Complete Vehicle Production in Blender” and adapt it as I go along.

    I decided to get this, after having watched the free “Modeling Car Rims in Blender” chapter.

    subsurface.jpg

    You can see the chapter here:



    Happy modding
     
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  14. luchian

    luchian Administrator Staff Member

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    Whoa.. this looks very cool :). I love that Volvo. I think I've seen one, lowered, repainted, looked extremely cool. Retro-modern-ish style :).

    One note for the rims modeling: you probably will do some simplification afterwards I assume; but bear in mind the Kunos models have around 32-26 faces for the wheel's "cylinder".
     
  15. DanTDBV

    DanTDBV Member

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    It is about time for a little update.

    My 3D projects are not dead.

    They are just sleeping very deeply.

    I had some different basic techniques that I couldn’t get my head around, so I needed a break.


    I have been spending my time on realizing a longstanding dream. My wish for a Lefty HOTAS set (Hands On Throttle And Stick) or in other words combat aircraft controllers.

    I have badly wanted a Lefty HOTAS set for the past 20 years.

    To top it off I am also rearranging my simpit.

    IMG_1247.JPG

    Ahhh, nostalgia trip.

    I got my first PC back in 1993 with Soundblaster 2.0, some crappy speakers and a CH Flightstick Pro. This so I could play X-wing.

    Together with the Soundblaster came my introduction into simracing: Indianapolis 500: The Simulation. Keyboard controls are not my thing.

    Not so long after I fell for Falcon 3.0, Gunship2000 and IndyCar Racing. For these I got the CH Flightsim Yoke and the CH Pedals.

    In 1994 I got TIE-fighter and a Soundblaster AWE32 with ASP chip but without extra RAM. What a difference. I very much enjoyed that for a whileUnfortunately the drivers screwed up Windows98 when I upgraded to that. I ended up giving it away. I very much regret that today.

    Years later wanting to do X-wing and TIE-fighter again I became disapointed with DOSBox only having SB16 emulation, I could only find a AWE32 Value edition without the ASP chip, when building my DOS 6.22/WIN3.1/WIN98 retro PC. It sounds like the SB16, so I will just stick with DOSBox.

    I consider ditching the retro PC together with the CH Flightsim Yoke and the CH Pedals.

    My favorite racing game enters my PC in 1995: IndyCar Racing II, followed by NASCAR Racing II in 1996.

    In this period CH products released their Combatstick, Fighterstick and Pro Throttle.


    I wanted, really, really, really wanted, but alas the stick is for the right hand and the throttle is for the left hand.

    My motor skills are such that my right hand, is capable of about 50% of the controller precision, that I have with my left hand.

    I have tried using an ordinary HOTAS and that is not for me. There is no fun and joy in it at all. I spent more time hitting the ground, than flying the plane.

    There have been no right hand HOTAS throttle on the gaming market, apart from a guy that did a CH Fighterstick and Pro Throttle conversion from 2006 and some time forward. Unfortunately he has stopped doing them. When he made them, they where way out of my price league.


    Out of the past and into the now.


    My project involves a Thrustmaster T.16000m, a Thrustmaster TWCS (Tactical Weapons Control System), Saitek Pro Flight Throttle Quadrant and the Logitech G27.

    Planned modifications:
    T.16000m joystick set up for left hand.
    2 stage trigger Done
    Pointy button Done
    Pinky button Done
    Add 1 5 way tact switch to thumb rest Wirering prepared
    Add 1 5 way tact switch where the middle button is Wirering prepared
    Replace remaining buttons with capped 6x6mm tactile switches

    IMG_1208.JPG

    Current state of the T.16000m

    IMG_1225.JPG

    The TWCS and Quadrant will be made into adual engine throttle ala Warthog for the right hand.

    I am will also be doing a right hand helicopter collective lever, but I don’t know how yet.

    PCB's for the pots, buttons, hats and minijoystick from the TM TWCS, in a box with a D-Sub DB25 connector so I can swap controllers, to 5 way tactile switches, pots and capped 6x6mm tactile switches.

    For handles I am currently experimenting with a dice cup or a tooth mug. 3D printing is out of my economical range at the moment.

    Throttles will be 2 of the levers, on the Saitek Pro Flight Throttle Quadrant. I will bend the 3. lever.

    From the G27 the pedals will be used for rudder and brakes. I will use the buttons on the gearthingie and I hope that I can figure out how to use the different gears as toggle state switches in my different flightsims.


    Originally this was for DCS World and Falcon BMS, but with a gift of FS2004 and FSX it has grown way bigger. Tons of free stuff for fs2004 and FSX and I have just begun to dip my toes.

    The current simpit.

    IMG_1245.JPG

    Started out with making the footrest for my reversemounted pedals removable. No more scraped shins when I do ordinary PC work.

    I am in the process of figuring out how to mount throttles, joystick, shifter and mouse platform to my office chair instead of the table/shelf system.

    I will be on this for a while.

    If anyone is interested I have a WIP thread here:
    http://simhq.com/forum/ubbthreads.p...tas-wip-and-other-controller-mods#Post4355231

    I am very happy that I have gone into this.


    Okay. Enough of this off topic.

    I will be coming back for more Nisseringen, Voldsom Volvo and Fælledparken, with more energy.


    Happy modding
     
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  16. Pixelchaser

    Pixelchaser Well-Known Member

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    seen a few left handed warthog sticks. not fancy that route ?
     
  17. DanTDBV

    DanTDBV Member

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    I know of the Lefty Warthog conversion and I think that it is great. He does a very great job with that.

    It is just way beyond my economic capabilities.

    It also does not give the satisfaction of making something like this by your selve.
     
  18. luchian

    luchian Administrator Staff Member

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    Hahaha, what a mix of self-introduction/gaming-history you got there Dan :).
    You are like the Nordic version of a friend I have. Even your wip photos look similar :D. Great stuff. Keep up with what makes you busy and happy these days, no problem. Nisseringen & co will still be there when you feel like "coming back" :). Cheers.
     
  19. DanTDBV

    DanTDBV Member

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    After a long hiatus I have resaddled the horse.

    I have been very annoyed with the bumpy Danish pointclouds.

    Nisseringen Level2 max edge 5 no smooth 1.jpg

    Nisseringen Level2 max edge 5 no smooth 2.jpg

    The bumpiness would persist through cloud subsampling and mesh decimation.

    After a lengthy research period on smoothing pointclouds, I have tried the “Moving Least Squares” smoothing plugin in Cloud Compare.

    CloudCompare PCL wrapper.jpg

    CloudCompare MLS smooth.jpg


    I am still experimenting with settings, but this is very promising.

    Nisseringen Level2 no poly 6 sgp smooth 1.jpg

    Nisseringen Level2 no poly 6 sgp smooth 2.jpg

    I look very much forward to jumping into the saddle again.

    Happy modding
     
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